Review: Sunday Magazine - Main Course
It has been a long time between Parnells. It is not a suburb I ordinarily gravitate to, and on the rare occasion that I have recently, there have been excruciating cries of disappointment (on my part).
However, the one constant about Parnell has been Cibo. It is itself now a teenager - a gorgeous one at that. Cibo sits in its own little eco-climate at the bottom of the Axis Building. This allows for theatrical entrances, the generous use of open spaces and the considerable employment of flax, floribunda and goldfish to enhance an already beautiful site.
It has in recent months under gone a procedure familiar to many Parnell-ites, in that it has had a refit. This has further enhanced it's well established assets.
The wait staff, at least wear ties and smart shirts. They open the doors and ay "welcome" and that instantly infuses a sense of belonging. It is a monstrous shame that some of the punters can't meet the standards their hosts have set. A pox on the lot who think a T-shit and jeans is acceptable dress at an address so rich and fine.
Kate Fay is head chef here; Jeremy Turner is the maitre d'. They must have camp beds out the back judging by the time they put in. This is a true example of an owner-operator operation at the smoothest top of its game.
Our meal became, by happenstance, a sort of mini-degustation. the Duke and I couldn't decide between so much, they brought out little tasting plates of a lot. This is another snazzy feature about Cibo. Their attentions are totally diner-centric. If you want an entree as a main you can - and vice versa. They even do half glasses of wine (and no matter the size, it will come in a Riedel glass).
We start with a whitebait fritter for me and pork belly with pumpkin gnocchi for him. Next is rare seared Hereford prime sirloin with Asian herb summer rolls and spiced cashews (me); ricotta-stuffed courgette flowers (he).
Then I will get herb and sesame crusted snapper with sweet pomegranate, plus ricotta and chervil dumpling, while the Duke jealously protects his red roasted chicken. It has a warm rice noodle salsa, chilli peanuts and a lime and coriander dressing. Somewhere along the way a gratis server of Fay's signature duck pops up. It is unfair to single out any particular dish, when all contribute equally to one spectacular occasion. Likewise we cannot fault the attentions of the discreet and charming wait set.
Cibo is a textbook case of age, wisdom and experience melded with youthful vigour - both in kitchen and front of house. It is an experience of complete reward - all for the cost of $164.50.
For once dessert eludes us. Gluttony is not just sinful; it's ugly. But I do manage a snort of one of Fay's malted chocolate milkshakes. You really should try it. While you're at it, take a look at the brilliant cheese matches she does too.
If I love Cibo before, I adore it now. Old is good. Even if it means a return to Parnell.